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@media(max-width:359px){.section{padding-left:16px;padding-right:16px}.site-header{padding-left:6px;padding-right:6px}nav a{font-size:11px}.trip-content{padding:16px}.trip-facts div{display:block}.trip-facts dd{text-align:left;margin-top:4px}}
@media(max-height:500px) and (orientation:landscape){.site-header{position:relative}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*{transition:none!important}}
/* Journal: reading-first, with the same photo-led identity. */
.site-header nav{gap:18px}.hero-title{grid-template-columns:1.6fr 1fr;gap:32px}.hero-title h1{font-size:clamp(50px,6vw,80px)}.hero-aside p{font:18px/1.6 system-ui}.journal-preview,.journal-list{padding-top:40px;padding-bottom:48px}.journal-preview{border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.journal-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:32px}.journal-card{min-width:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding-bottom:20px}.journal-card>a{display:block}.journal-card img{width:100%;height:auto}.journal-card>div{padding-top:16px}.journal-card .eyebrow{font-size:10px;margin-bottom:10px}.journal-card h3{font-size:27px;line-height:1.2;margin-bottom:12px}.journal-card h3 a{text-decoration:none}.journal-card p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:15px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.65}.journal-card .text-link{margin-top:12px}.journal-list .journal-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:40px}.article-header{padding-top:24px;padding-bottom:32px}.article-header>.text-link{margin-bottom:24px}.article-header>.eyebrow{margin-bottom:16px}.article-header h1{font-size:clamp(40px,5vw,68px);max-width:950px;line-height:1.1}.article-byline{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);margin:20px 0}.article-header .lead{max-width:800px;font-size:24px}.article-photo img{width:100%;height:auto}.article-photo figcaption{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:12px;max-width:800px}.article-body{max-width:760px;margin:40px auto 56px;padding:0 24px;font-size:18px;line-height:1.85}.article-body>section{margin-top:36px}.article-body h2{font-size:32px;line-height:1.2;margin-bottom:20px}.article-body p+p{margin-top:20px}.author-note{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:40px;padding-top:24px;color:var(--muted);font-size:14px}.author-note h2{font:600 14px system-ui;letter-spacing:0;margin-bottom:12px}.article-next{display:grid;gap:12px;margin-top:32px}.article-next a{font-size:15px;line-height:1.55}.page-cikk .site-header nav>a{min-width:0}
@media(max-width:1000px){.site-header nav{grid-template-columns:repeat(6,minmax(0,1fr));gap:0}.journal-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}.journal-preview .journal-card:last-child{display:none}}
@media(max-width:760px){.hero-title{display:block}.hero-title h1{font-size:clamp(36px,9.5vw,48px);line-height:1.08}.hero-aside p{font-size:16px}.site-header nav a{font-size:11px;padding:9px 2px}.journal-grid,.journal-list .journal-grid{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr);gap:28px}.journal-preview .journal-card:last-child{display:block}.journal-preview,.journal-list{padding-top:32px;padding-bottom:36px}.journal-card h3{font-size:27px}.journal-card p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:16px}.article-header{padding-top:16px;padding-bottom:24px}.article-header>.text-link{margin-bottom:16px}.article-header h1{font-size:36px;line-height:1.15}.article-header .lead{font-size:21px}.article-byline{font-size:13px;margin:16px 0}.article-photo figcaption{font-size:12px}.article-body{padding:0 20px;margin:28px auto 40px;font-size:17px;line-height:1.8}.article-body>section{margin-top:28px}.article-body h2{font-size:28px}.article-body p+p{margin-top:16px}.author-note{font-size:14px}.article-next a{font-size:15px}}
@media(max-width:389px){.site-header nav{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr))}.site-header nav a{font-size:12px;min-height:44px}.site-header{position:relative}html{scroll-padding-top:20px}.hero-title h1{font-size:36px}.article-header h1{font-size:32px}}
/* Full-frame photographic carousel: restrained movement, visible navigation. */
.hero-gallery{margin:0;min-width:0}.gallery-stage{position:relative;display:grid;grid-template-areas:'photo';background:#e9e2d7;border-radius:4px;overflow:hidden;isolation:isolate}.gallery-slide{grid-area:photo;display:grid;grid-template-rows:minmax(0,1fr);opacity:0;visibility:hidden;transition:opacity .75s ease,visibility .75s;min-width:0;margin:0}.gallery-slide.is-active{opacity:1;visibility:visible;z-index:1}.gallery-slide img{width:100%;height:clamp(320px,48vw,580px);object-fit:contain;align-self:center}.gallery-toolbar{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:16px;padding:12px 0}.gallery-controls{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:8px}.gallery-controls button{min-height:44px;min-width:44px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:3px;color:var(--ink);background:transparent;font-size:20px;padding:6px 10px}.gallery-controls button:hover{background:var(--surface);border-color:var(--rust)}.gallery-controls [data-gallery=play]{font-size:12px;min-width:84px}.gallery-count{font-size:12px;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;white-space:nowrap;padding:0 4px}.gallery-thumbnails{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(6,minmax(0,1fr));gap:10px}.gallery-thumb{display:block;min-width:0;border:1px solid transparent;background:transparent;color:var(--muted);padding:4px;text-align:left;border-radius:3px}.gallery-thumb[aria-pressed=true]{border-color:var(--rust);color:var(--ink);background:var(--surface)}.gallery-thumb img{width:100%;height:64px;object-fit:contain;background:#e9e2d7}.gallery-announcement{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;padding:0;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;clip-path:inset(50%);white-space:nowrap}.gallery-stage{touch-action:pan-y}
@media(max-width:760px){.gallery-slide img{height:clamp(270px,80vw,390px)}.gallery-toolbar{flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;padding:12px 0}.gallery-controls{width:100%;justify-content:space-between}.gallery-controls button{min-height:48px;min-width:48px}.gallery-thumbnails{gap:4px}.gallery-thumb{padding:3px 2px}.gallery-thumb img{height:43px}.gallery-thumb{min-height:64px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.gallery-slide{transition:none}}

.gallery-heading{font-size:11px;line-height:1.5;letter-spacing:.07em;color:var(--muted);margin:0 0 12px}.gallery-toolbar{justify-content:flex-end}

.gallery-thumbnails{grid-template-columns:repeat(8,minmax(0,1fr))}@media(max-width:760px){.gallery-thumbnails{display:flex;overflow-x:auto;gap:7px;padding-bottom:8px;scroll-snap-type:x proximity;scrollbar-width:thin}.gallery-thumb{flex:0 0 72px;min-height:62px;scroll-snap-align:center}.gallery-thumb img{height:52px}}

/* Curated horizontal sequence: identical 3:2 frames on every screen. */
.gallery-stage{display:block;aspect-ratio:3/2;height:auto;background:var(--ink)}.gallery-slide{position:absolute;inset:0;display:block;width:100%;height:100%;min-height:0}.gallery-slide img{width:100%;height:100%;aspect-ratio:3/2;object-fit:cover}.gallery-thumb img{height:auto;aspect-ratio:3/2;object-fit:cover}@media(max-width:760px){.gallery-slide img{height:100%}.gallery-thumb img{height:auto}}

/* Editorial gateway and two clearly separated reading sections. */
.blog-navigation{display:flex;justify-content:flex-start;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin-top:28px}.blog-navigation a{padding:10px 17px;min-height:46px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:3px;font-size:14px;white-space:normal}.blog-navigation a[aria-current]{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);border-color:var(--ink)}.blog-navigation a[aria-current]:after{display:none}.blog-choices{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:32px;padding-bottom:88px}.blog-choice{display:block;text-decoration:none;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:4px;overflow:hidden;background:var(--surface);transition:border-color .2s}.blog-choice:hover{border-color:var(--rust)}.blog-choice img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:3/2;object-fit:cover}.blog-choice>div{padding:28px}.blog-choice h2{font-size:clamp(32px,4vw,48px);margin:8px 0 18px}.blog-choice .text-link{display:inline-block;margin-top:22px}.blog-choice p:not(.eyebrow){color:var(--muted)}@media(max-width:760px){.blog-choices{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:24px;padding-bottom:52px}.blog-choice>div{padding:22px}.blog-navigation{gap:7px}.blog-navigation a{padding:10px 13px;font-size:13px}}

.header-brand-row{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px}.header-facebook{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:6px;min-width:44px;min-height:44px;text-decoration:none;font-size:12px;color:var(--ink);border-radius:6px}.header-facebook:hover{color:var(--rust);background:var(--surface)}@media(max-width:1000px){.header-brand-row{padding-bottom:8px}.header-brand-row .brand{padding-bottom:0}}@media(max-width:480px){.header-facebook span{display:none}}

.article-inline-photo{margin:32px 0}.article-inline-photo img{width:100%;height:auto}.article-inline-photo figcaption{margin-top:10px;font-size:12px;line-height:1.65;color:var(--muted)}.article-sources{font-size:15px;line-height:1.75}.article-sources li+li{margin-top:12px}.article-table-wrap{margin:24px 0;overflow-x:auto}.article-checklist{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;font-size:15px;line-height:1.6}.article-checklist caption{text-align:left;font-weight:600;margin-bottom:12px}.article-checklist th,.article-checklist td{padding:12px 10px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);text-align:left;vertical-align:top}.article-checklist th{font-weight:600}.article-checklist thead{background:var(--surface)}.article-checklist tbody th{width:25%}
/* UX review · 2026-10-16: visible navigation, deliberate photography, readable tools */
.hero-gallery .gallery-slide img{object-fit:contain;background:#e9e2d7}
.hero-gallery .gallery-thumb img{object-fit:contain;background:#e9e2d7}
.hero-gallery:not(.is-enhanced) .gallery-stage{display:flex;overflow-x:auto;scroll-snap-type:x mandatory}
.hero-gallery:not(.is-enhanced) .gallery-slide{position:relative;inset:auto;flex:0 0 100%;opacity:1;visibility:visible;scroll-snap-align:start}
.hero-gallery:not(.is-enhanced) .gallery-toolbar,.hero-gallery:not(.is-enhanced) .gallery-thumbnails{display:none}
.hero-gallery.is-enhanced .gallery-stage{overflow:hidden}
.breadcrumbs{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:flex-start;gap:4px 10px;margin:0 0 14px;font-size:13px;line-height:1.5;color:var(--muted)}
.breadcrumbs a{font-size:13px;min-height:44px;padding:6px 0;text-decoration:underline;justify-content:flex-start}
.breadcrumbs>span{align-self:center}.breadcrumbs a:after{display:none}
.article-header .reading-time{display:inline-block}.article-toc{padding:18px 20px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:4px;background:var(--surface);margin-bottom:32px}
.article-toc summary{min-height:44px;font-size:16px;font-weight:600;cursor:pointer}
.article-toc nav{display:block}.article-toc ol{padding-left:22px;margin:12px 0 0}.article-toc a{display:block;min-height:44px;padding:8px 0;font-size:15px;line-height:1.5;white-space:normal;text-align:left;text-decoration:underline}
.article-body section{scroll-margin-top:120px}.article-body a{overflow-wrap:anywhere}
.article-toc a[aria-current]:after{display:none}
.trip-content>.text-link{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:3px;padding:12px 14px;background:var(--paper)}
.trip-content>.text-link:hover{border-color:var(--rust)}
.contact-actions{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:12px}.button-secondary{background:transparent;color:var(--ink);border-color:var(--line)}
.button-secondary:hover{background:var(--paper);border-color:var(--rust)}
button:disabled{opacity:.55;cursor:default}.message-preview{margin-top:20px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:12px}.message-preview summary{min-height:44px;font-size:14px}.message-preview label{margin-top:12px}.message-preview textarea{font-size:14px;line-height:1.6}
.reset-filter:disabled{opacity:.5;text-decoration:none}.article-body p a,.author-note a,.small a{ text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-thickness:1px;text-underline-offset:4px}
.blog-choices{padding-bottom:40px}.blog-choice h2{line-height:1.15}.journal-card h3{line-height:1.25}.journal-card img{background:#e9e2d7}
@media(max-width:1000px){.site-header #main-menu{grid-template-columns:repeat(6,minmax(0,1fr));gap:0}.site-header #main-menu a{font-size:13px;min-height:44px;padding:10px 4px}}
@media(max-width:760px){.site-header{position:relative}.site-header #main-menu{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:0}.site-header #main-menu a{font-size:13px;min-height:44px;padding:10px 4px;overflow-wrap:normal}.site-header nav a{line-height:1.35}html{scroll-padding-top:20px}.article-body section{scroll-margin-top:20px}.article-toc{padding:14px 16px}.article-header .lead{font-size:20px}.contact-email{font-size:clamp(18px,5.4vw,22px);overflow-wrap:anywhere}.trip-facts dt,.eyebrow{font-size:12px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.hero-gallery .gallery-slide{transition:none}}